From Lilongwe to Copenhagen

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So the news from the COP15 talks this morning is rather inevitable. The USA and a few other countries have cobbled together some sort of deal, and developing countries (and even – weedily – the European Union) are complaining it’s deeply inadequate. There will be some effort to save face, to try to ‘keep on talking’. Interestingly it was even hard to get China to agree to the notion that other countries can check emissions levels – so will countries even stick to what little they have agreed? Polly Toynbee sums things up rather neatly and pessimistically.

IMG_0085The amount of money needed to get a deal to work is not that high – about $100bn a year. That’s not even the size of the EU budget. It’s less than 1% of the GDP of the world’s developed countries. It’s 1 cent in every dollar, 1 cent in every Euro, 1 penny in every pound. If the EU stopped subsidising farmers we would be half way there. The UK alone has injected $850 billion into its banking sector, about 1/3 of what would be needed for climate investments between now and 2020.

Yet set all of this in the context of a problem that has existed for much longer than we’ve known about climate change, namely development of the world’s poorest countries. I returned to Europe a couple of days ago having spent 8 days in Malawi, including 3 days working for the Ministry of Education, Science and Technology of Malawi, and a long weekend spent at the shore of Lake Malawi at Senga Bay.

The scale of the problems Malawi faces are mind boggling. One of Africa’s smallest countries, 14 million people live in the small sliver of land to the east of Lake Malawi. 80% are under 16 and around 12% have HIV/AIDS (who fill 70% of its hospital beds). The population is largely rural, mostly tiny smallholdings of maize. Life expectancy is just over 43 years at birth. And the developed world has not managed to get its act together to coherently help…

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Germany has just doubled its aid for 2010 to Malawi… to €62 million. OK, better than a kick in the teeth, but what can you actually do with that much? The ratio of kids to school teachers in Malawi is 1:200 or so, you could not even rectify that with €62 million, let alone deal with the abject lack of infrastructure.

IMG_0086And yet countries like the UK just don’t get it. The UK aims to reach the UN suggested target of 0.7% of GDP committed to foreign aid by 2014, and a handful of developed countries will reach that target. If the Tories win the election in the UK next year the situation will get worse – take Cameron’s comments about Copenhagen quoted in The Guardian:

The Tory leader said he would support the £1.6bn offered by Brown on behalf of Britain to help with adaptation among developing countries so long as it came from the aid budget.

Seriously, what the f**k is that? We’ll help the rest of the world with either regular development aid or the climate, but not both, and even then the cost is really low. NGOs, the Fair Trade Movement, the protesters in Copenhagen are doing their best. But we need bold political leadership too, leaders who make a compelling case that we’re all better off if injustices are reduced.

Go to Malawi, see it, feel it, and then look yourself in the mirror and say that bailing out RBS is a better use of the UK government’s cash.

For the farmers in the villages beside the road between Lilongwe and Salima, for the little kids in the bus that wave at passers-by, for the stoical babies strapped to their mothers’ backs facing an uncertain future… for those people we need a more just world, and that’s going to cost us. It’s not even as if extra consumption in the developed world even makes us more happy, as Richard Layard so compellingly shows.

I’ll personally be donating 20% of my income from the work I did in Malawi to malaria prevention projects there, and I’m also wondering whether I can commit to giving 20% of my annual income earned in 2010 to charity. If states and politicians cannot contemplate it, then I suppose I can make a personal start?

All pictures: Jon Worth, CC Licence, from my Flickr set from Malawi

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Dive Lake Malawi

It was one of the most unusual work assignments I’ve ever been given: 3 days working in Lilongwe, Malawi. But it would be mad to fly to sub-Saharan Africa without enjoying a few days off too. Lake Malawi is supposed to be one of the best freshwater dive spots in the world, so why not give it a go?

Getting There
There are a number of diving spots on the Malawian coast of the lake: Nkhata Bay to the north, Cape McClear to the south and Senga Bay due east from Lilongwe. It was the latter where I dived. Senga Bay is 2 hours by bus from Lilongwe, normally with the last few km on an open backed jeep betwen Salima and Senga Bay. AXA coaches runs a direct service to Senga Bay and smaller charter buses are available direct at the airport for those lacking the guts for the public transport.

Accommodation
Screen shot 2009-12-16 at 15.11.03I stayed at the rather bizarrely named ‘Cool Runnings‘, a charming and eccentric backpackers’ place that offers basic dorm rooms for about $12 night and simple ensuite rooms for about double the cost of a dorm. The owner, Sam Ludwick, is a Zimbabwe-born lady who is involved in all kinds of local projects. She’s a great source of stories about the local area. Cool Runnings also has good home made evening meals, lush green gardens, and a bar with a view of the lake. It’s highly recommended!

Diving
wamwaiSo what’s the diving actually like? The only diving centre at Senga Bay is Wamwai. There’s also a restaurant and rooms there. Wamwai, and it’s jovial and kind South African owners, have enough dive kit to take out groups of about 10 people, and from March they will be able to offer PADI open water courses there. The BCDs and regulators were decent Mares and ScubaPro but the masks and fins were showing their age. There’s no dive shop anywhere in Malawi, and import taxes are prohibitive. So if you’re heading to Lake Malawi take along your own basics.

There are dive sites around Lizard Island, about 1km off the coast of Senga Bay, and a further dive is possible around another rocky outcrop beside the island. Dives to 8m depth are possible here. Deeper dives are possible at the Mumbo and Domwe Islands, 2 hours south with Wamwai’s small wooden boat.

Screen shot 2009-12-16 at 15.10.40Frankly the diving at Lizard Island was not as good as I had been expecting. Guide books state that Lake Malawi diving is like swimming through shoals of silver fish. Yes, there are many varieties of fish (Cichlids) but there are not so many of them. Diving here needs patience and an attention to details.

The surface of Lake Malawi is at 472m above sea level, making this an altitude dive. However far from the cold waters mentioned by the PADI guide to altitude diving, Lake Malawi is very warm! Temperatures at the surface were over 30 degrees and not much cooler at 8m depth. Even in the cool season temperatures should not drop below 22 degrees.

Which leads to perhaps the most complicated matter of all: when is the right time to dive in Lake Malawi? 13th December, the day of my dive, is a week of so into the rainy season. Not only does this mean that the 12 main rivers feeding the lake bring plenty of silt into the lake, but the winds that blow in from the east also cause sediment to be stirred up. This meant that the visibility was between 3 and 5 metres on the day I dived, far from ideal.

So for me the jury’s out about Lake Malawi as a dive site. Perhaps I was just there at the wrong time, perhaps other spots are better, or maybe I was just spoiled by Dahab on the Red Sea where I learned to dive.

See this Flickr set for more photos from my Malawi trip

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